To regrip your golf clubs, you'll secure the club in a vise, remove the old grip with solvent, clean the shaft, apply double-sided tape, then slide on the new grip while it's flooded with solvent. The whole process takes about five minutes per club once you've got the rhythm down. You'll want to align the grip before it dries and let it cure for 12-24 hours, and there's a specific technique that makes installation foolproof.
Before you plunge into regripping your clubs, let's address the biggest mistake I see golfers make: they grab a utility knife and some electrical tape, then wonder why their new grips spin like a weathervane in a tornado.
You need proper tools. A hook blade slices through old grips without gouging your shaft. Grip tape strips create the tacky foundation your new grips demand. Grip solvent lubricates the installation and activates the adhesive. The solvent is non-flammable and non-toxic with a pleasant citrus scent, making it safe to use in your garage or workshop.
Here's the good news: complete kits run under $15 and include everything for 13 clubs. A small tray for catching excess solvent allows you to pour it back into the bottle for future regripping sessions. Keep in mind that after installation, you should wait at least 24 hours before using your clubs to ensure the grips fully adhere to the shafts.
Now secure that club. A rubber vise clamp protects both graphite and steel shafts while keeping everything stationary. Bolt it to your workbench, position the grip end within easy reach, and double-check stability before proceeding.
Once you've locked that club in place, resist the urge to start hacking away at the old grip with whatever blade happens to be nearby. The solvent method works best for most home regrippers. Apply grip solvent or white spirit between the grip and shaft, slide a tool under the grip lip, and let gravity pull that solvent down the gap. A bent metal coat hanger with a rounded end works perfectly for channeling the solvent down the side of the grip. A twisting motion after application helps work the grip free without damaging your shaft.
For those who prefer the traditional approach, the Risch Master method requires brute strength and a towel to simply pull the old grip off after applying liberal amounts of lubricant around the grip. Now comes the tedious part: tape removal. Hit that old double-sided tape with a heat gun to reactivate the adhesive, then scrape it off with a hooked blade. Finish by wiping the shaft with white spirit until it's absolutely clean. Skip this step, and your new grip won't bond properly. If your old grips still have life left in them, cleaning them with hot water and dish soap can restore tackiness before you decide to replace them entirely.
Two inches of tape width handles virtually every regripping job you'll encounter, despite what some specialty shops want you to believe about needing multiple tape widths in your arsenal. Cut your tape to match the grip length, leaving about an inch of overhang at the butt end.
Apply the tape lengthwise along the shaft, starting at the butt end. Keep it straight and use slight tension to prevent bubbles. Press firmly as you go; adhesion matters here. Once positioned, peel off the backing to expose the adhesive surface. Mark the position for the bottom of the grip on the shaft before proceeding to ensure proper placement. The double-sided grip tape should be applied evenly to ensure the new grip slides on smoothly during installation.
Here's the trick most tutorials skip: twist that overhanging inch and push it inside the shaft's butt end. This prevents solvent from seeping into the shaft during installation and locks everything in place.
Before moving forward, run your fingers along the tape. Feel for wrinkles, bubbles, or loose spots. Fix them now or regret it later.
Grip solvent mystifies beginners more than any other part of this process, and manufacturers love keeping it that way. Here's the truth: you don't need expensive, branded solvent. Rubbing alcohol works perfectly and costs a fraction of the price. Mineral spirits from your hardware store do the job too, though they evaporate more slowly and give you more working time.
Pour solvent generously into your new grip, fill it about halfway. Plug both ends with your fingers and shake vigorously for several seconds. Then pour that excess directly over the grip tape on your shaft, catching the runoff in a paint tray below. Don't skimp here. More solvent means easier installation and prevents the grip from catching or tearing mid-slide. Traditional solvents are specifically formulated to evaporate quickly, ensuring no tacky residue remains on your grip. Before sliding the grip on, use a finger to verify that the tape is fully coated with solvent for smooth installation. Much like how advanced composite technologies have improved golf shaft performance, modern grip solvents have evolved to provide optimal working time while still drying cleanly.
Before you start sliding that grip on, you need your club locked down tight—this isn't optional. Secure your club in a vice with a shaft clamp about five inches below the grip end, toe pointing up. Graphite shaft? Don't overtighten, or you'll crush it.
Now work fast. Flood the inside of that grip with solvent, position the open end just below the shaft butt, and push it on in one fluid motion. You've got maybe two minutes before that tape sets. Use a paint tray underneath to catch excess solvent that drips during installation. Before pouring the solvent, plug the grip's vent hole and shake it to ensure complete interior coverage.
While everything's still wet, twist the grip until your alignment marks sit at twelve o'clock with the clubface square. Don't second-guess yourself here; once that solvent dries, you're committed. Wipe off excess residue and let it cure upright for twelve to twenty-four hours. Make sure to work in a well-ventilated area since grip solvent produces strong fumes that can be overwhelming in enclosed spaces.
You'll want to wait at least 6 hours before hitting the range, though I'd push for a full 24 hours if you're using solvent-based adhesive. Here's the reality: rushing this step is a rookie mistake that'll cost you. Test your grips by giving them a firm twist; if there's any movement or tackiness, you're not ready. Cold or humid conditions? Add extra time.
Yes, you can skip the commercial grip solvent. Soapy water works well; it lubricates effectively, dries fast, and costs almost nothing. Isopropyl alcohol is another solid choice that evaporates quickly without residue.
Avoid mineral spirits despite their popularity. They leave tape gooey for months, causing grips to twist during your swing. Skip WD-40, gasoline, and lighter fluid entirely; they're either dangerous or won't dry properly. Test any alternative on one club initially.
You should replace your grips every 12–18 months or every 30–40 rounds, whichever comes first. That's the baseline. If you're grinding daily at the range or live in a hot, humid climate, cut that timeline to 6–9 months. Don't wait for obvious cracks or that slick, glossy feel. Worn grips quietly cost you 3–4 shots per round through lost control and death-grip tension.
Your grips are telling you they're done when you spot shiny, worn patches where your thumbs sit or feel that slick, hard texture instead of tackiness. If you're white-knuckling the club to prevent slippage or noticing cracks and peeling, don't wait; they're shot. The dead giveaway? Your hands ache after rounds from gripping too tightly to compensate for worn-out rubber.
Yes, you can reuse a grip if you removed it carefully. The catch? It depends entirely on your removal method. Grips pulled off with air instead of solvent come off cleanly and reuse beautifully. Cut grips are trash. Before reinstalling, clean out all old tape residue, inspect for tears or cracks, and let it dry completely. If it feels loose or worn, don't bother; just buy fresh.
Regripping your own clubs isn't just about saving money; it's about understanding your equipment at a fundamental level. You've now got the skills to customize your setup whenever grips wear down or your preferences change. The whole process takes about five minutes per club once you've done it a few times. Stop paying pro shop prices and start maintaining your own gear.
