You'll need a sharp utility knife, double-sided grip tape, grip solvent, and a sturdy vise to regrip your clubs properly. Start by cutting off the old grip and scraping away residual tape, then clean the shaft thoroughly with solvent. Wrap new tape from bottom to top, leaving extra length to fold over the shaft end. Pour solvent inside the new grip and over the taped shaft, then slide it on in one smooth motion while checking alignment. Let it cure for 2-6 hours, and you'll uncover additional techniques that'll make this process even smoother.
Success in regripping golf clubs starts with having the right tools and materials within arm's reach before you even touch that old, worn grip. You'll need a sharp utility knife—preferably a hook knife for safer cutting—plus scissors for trimming tape precisely. A sturdy table vise with rubber clamps holds your club securely without damaging the shaft. The important part is: double-sided grip tape is absolutely crucial for proper adhesion, along with grip solvent to lubricate everything during installation. Don't forget measuring tape and a marker for accurate positioning! Safety gear like protective gloves keeps your hands clean and cut-free. Having clean rags, a drip tray, and a proper workspace setup makes the entire process smoother and more professional. Old towels should be kept nearby to handle any spills or excess solvent that may occur during the installation. Always ensure you have a well-ventilated area to work in since the solvents can produce strong fumes during the installation process. A heat gun can be an optional but helpful tool for softening stubborn grip tape during the removal process.
Before you can install that fresh new grip, you've got to tackle the slightly messy but satisfying job of removing the old one and getting your shaft squeaky clean. Start by squirting solvent like rubbing alcohol under the grip, then work your hook blade downward while twisting the shaft. The solvent penetrates the adhesive tape, making removal much easier! Keep adding more solvent when you feel resistance.
Once the grip's off, you'll see stubborn double-sided tape clinging to your shaft. Scrape this off gently—especially on graphite shafts where you can easily nick the paint. Clean everything with solvent and a lint-free cloth until the surface is completely smooth. A spotless shaft means your new grip will bond properly and last longer. Consider what grip materials work best for your playing conditions when selecting your replacement grip. For grips you want to save and reuse, wash them thoroughly with warm soapy water to remove any remaining solvent and adhesive residue.
Alternatively, you can use a grip shoe tool, which involves inserting it between the grip and shaft with lubrication like white spirit for an easier removal process.
Now that your shaft's spotless, it's time to wrap it with fresh tape that'll hold your new grip securely in place. Measure your new grip's length and mark that distance on the shaft, then cut your double-sided grip tape with an extra quarter-inch to one inch extending past the butt end. The key point is—you want to wrap this tape lengthwise, starting from the bottom, keeping it straight and wrinkle-free. If you're using two pieces, overlap the edges slightly but avoid stacking layers on the same side. Fold that excess tape over the shaft end and push it inside the hollow shaft, then squeeze it tight to seal everything up perfectly. Position your paint tray underneath the club to catch any dripping solvent during the upcoming installation process. Cut the new grip tape to match the exact same length as your replacement grip for optimal coverage. Remember that proper grip installation affects your swing speed and overall club performance, making this step crucial for maintaining your game's consistency.
With your shaft perfectly taped and ready, it's time to tackle the trickiest part of the whole job—actually getting that new grip slid on without a hitch.
First, plug the grip's vent hole with your finger and pour solvent inside. Shake it vigorously to coat every surface, then pour that excess solvent over your taped shaft. You'll want everything thoroughly wetted—dry spots spell trouble!
Here's the thing: you've got maybe 2-3 minutes before the adhesive starts setting, so work quickly. Position the grip's open end just below the shaft butt and slide it on in one smooth motion. Use a gentle twisting action if needed.
Once it's on, immediately check your alignment. Make sure any logos or seams line up parallel to the clubface! The proper grip alignment affects your grip strength position, which directly influences clubface control during your swing. The grip will need 2-3 hours to fully dry and cure before you can use the club. You can collect any excess solvent in a small tray and pour it back into the container for future regripping projects.
Once you've slid that grip into place, the real waiting game begins—your freshly installed grip needs time to cure properly before you can swing away. The important point is that the solvent you applied needs 2 to 6 hours to fully evaporate and set. Don't rush it! Using your clubs too early can cause grips to twist or slip mid-swing, which isn't just annoying—it's dangerous.
Store your clubs in a cool, dry spot while they cure. Heat and humidity mess with the curing process, so avoid your garage on hot days. Keep your workspace organized and clean during the curing period to prevent any accidental damage to your freshly gripped clubs. After six hours, do a final check: squeeze the grip to verify it's rock-solid on the shaft, look for any bubbles or wrinkles, and confirm everything's aligned properly. For added security, tap the end of the grip on the ground once more to ensure it's seated completely flush against the shaft. Your patience pays off with grips that'll last! Proper regripping is an essential part of club maintenance that can help extend your clubs' overall lifespan beyond the typical 3 to 10 year range.
You should regrip your clubs every 12-18 months if you're a regular weekend player. The point is—if you play multiple times weekly, bump that up to every 8-12 months. A good rule of thumb is every 30-40 rounds, whichever comes first. Practice sessions count too! Watch for smooth, slippery surfaces or visible cracks—that's when you know it's time.
Measure from your wrist crease to your longest fingertip using your lead hand. If you're under 6 inches, go with undersized grips. Between 6-7.5 inches? Standard grips are your sweet spot. Over 7.5 inches means midsize grips will feel much better. The important point is—your glove size also matters! A medium glove typically pairs with standard grips. Always test different sizes before deciding though.
Professional regripping costs $3-20 per club, totaling $100-220 for a full set with labor included. DIY costs considerably less—you'll pay $7-15 per premium grip plus a few dollars for tape and solvent. You'll save on labor but need initial tool investment. For occasional regripping, professional service offers convenience and quality. However, if you regrip frequently, DIY becomes much more economical over time.
You can regrip graphite shafts, but you'll need to be more careful than with steel. Use a sharp hook blade at a 45-degree angle when removing old grips—never a straight utility knife. Apply less pressure during installation and use a vise with proper blocks to avoid cracking the shaft. The process is basically the same, just gentler!
Corded grips have interwoven cord fibers embedded in the rubber, creating a rougher, textured surface that's firmer and provides better traction in wet conditions. Non-corded grips are pure rubber with a softer, tackier feel that's more comfortable but less grippy when your hands sweat. Corded grips last longer and give you better feedback, while rubber grips absorb vibration better for comfort.
You've got this! Regripping your clubs takes about 20-30 minutes per grip once you get the hang of it. Remember, let those grips cure for at least 4 hours before swinging—trust me, you don't want a grip sliding off mid-swing. Keep your workspace clean, work in temperatures above 60°F, and take your time with alignment. Practice makes perfect, and you'll save hundreds compared to pro shop prices!
